Every year, more than 92 million tons of textiles end up wasted globally, a chunk of which includes perfectly good fabric left behind once apparel brands complete their full production runs. These leftovers often aren't enough for another complete manufacturing cycle, but there’s still plenty of yardage to go around, especially for brands producing in small batches. As the sustainability and circularity movement catches on in the apparel industry, we’re seeing many outdoor gear brands scoop up deadstock—forgotten fabric scraps—and piece them together into one-of-a-kind, limited designs that we’d be lucky to get our hands on—a welcomed complement to the brands offering resell, repair, and upcycle programs.
In this article, I will break down the different definitions of deadstock, dive into how it’s being used in the outdoor industry, and share with you nine outdoor brands working deadstock into new collections. As a runner, climber, and hiker who likes to repair gear and sometimes make my own, I’m keen on companies finding creative solutions to reuse their scraps.
What Does Deadstock Mean?
The most common definition of deadstock is excess fabric in the form of rolls, bolts, and remnants that’s leftover at a fabric mill, design house, or garment factory. This can include fabric with small flaws or quality issues (like a pattern misprint), and it also includes unused surplus fabric. To lessen some of their waste, designers either put the materials back into the production cycle or sell it off through fabric stores and resale platforms—The Fabric Sales and Constrvctor are two—to other scrappy creatives. The price is typically discounted, and the fabric comes in smaller and inconsistent cuts and quantities. Home sewists like me also consider fabric cuts found in the “miscellaneous” aisle at the thrift store deadstock.
![Arcteryx-GORE-Pro2-Studio-9](http://images.ctfassets.net/r7p9m4b1iqbp/2PgBBkTmvxWhpek3nnD2w1/35a1547d6829f5d868df506597edc106/Arcteryx-GORE-Pro2-Studio-9.jpg?w=600&q=85&fm=jpg&fl=progressive)
The Difference Between Dead Stock, Deadstock, and Deadstock Fabric
Dead stock can also mean the discontinued and excess ready-to-wear inventory that was never sold as a result of overproduction, canceled orders, or changes in fashion trends. These unwanted clothes sit in warehouses, get sold to liquidators or donated to charity, shipped overseas, or discarded and destroyed.
Then there’s deadstock, or highly coveted pristine pieces from the ‘90s or earlier that are unworn and still have the tags on them, like these Patagonia pieces. The environmental advantage of thrifting for secondhand gear is keeping clothing out of the landfill. But the personal style advantage is scoring big if you stumble upon deadstock vintage. It’s like its own time capsule into the past—without signs of wear or old tissues in the pockets.
How Deadstock Is Being Utilized by Outdoor Brands Big and Small
From patchwork pieces to limited collections, outdoor brands of all calibers are using deadstock fabric to design entirely new garments and accessories. By rescuing perfectly good textiles from going to waste, they’re putting high-quality and durable fabrics to use in gear that will last for decades. Some brands, like Cotopaxi, have built their whole brand identity around the ethos of circularity, while others are embracing the sustainable method one collection at a time. Put your conscious consumerism toward these brands breathing new life into deadstock fabric.
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9 Outdoor Brands Using Deadstock Fabric
Greater Goods
Started out of his Northern London Flat, designer Jaimus Tailor uses upcycled outerwear, worn-out apparel, and fabric off-cuts to craft Greater Goods’ functional bags and accessories—like the Euro Bag 30L and the Patchwork Dog Bed 012. In 2022, Greater Goods and Field Mag collaborated to create a limited collection of chalk bags and buckets designed for the gym and crag.
Earth\Studies
Our Portland, Oregon buddies get more love for their sand- and putty-colored collection of deadstock field shirts, bucket hats, pants, and shorts. Known for their patchworked and colorblocked pieces, you can barely tell that this Earth\Studies line is from excess fabric yardage. “By using surplus fabrics, we give new life to existing materials,” they say.
Raeburn
Fascinated with the wool field jackets and nylon parachute canopies he excavated from decommissioned military stock, British designer Christopher Raeburn started deconstructing and reworking the materials into utilitarian clothing. His regenerative design studio in East London makes the coolest stuff, like a crew neck and joggers with 1950s silk map offcuts.
![Arcteryx-Rebird-Thumb](http://images.ctfassets.net/r7p9m4b1iqbp/BgWhI9HNWYxv0NOcZyZUM/0697b76619e24d57abb09530d5c1c42f/Arcteryx-Rebird-Thumb.jpg?w=600&q=85&fm=jpg&fl=progressive)
Arc’teryx
The BC-based brand launched its Rebird program in 2021 to utilize materials rescued from its trade-in program as well as unused, end-of-the-roll fabrics repurposed from the production process. Though available products are limited, we have been able to get our hands on both an anorak jacket and a Rebird tote, both of which show the same high quality manufacturing as you’d expect from their core line.
66° North
The Kría collection from 66° North, launched first in the ‘90s and most recently in April 2024, is crafted in their Latvia factory out of Polartec Neoshell and fleece fabric leftover from last year’s products. The ‘90s-inspired capsule—including a half-zip jumper, vest, and cropped jacket—emphasizes the Icelandic brand’s commitment to using and reusing what’s available to slow down the production of new.
Cotopaxi
Cotopaxi’s whole M.O. is reusing remnants. The Del Dia, Teca, Trico Hybrid collections use deadstock and other brands' surplus materials, and sewers have creative license to choose the color combos. According to its 2023 impact report released in April, the brand estimates it’s kept over 2,745,000 yards of fabric from going to waste—enough to stretch from Miami to Boston.
![Fjällräven-Samlaren-Kånken-Tag](http://images.ctfassets.net/r7p9m4b1iqbp/62WcUYpDAWDomYV5Ry044X/6d8df529ba83d41e08b19b568ac6aade/Fj__llr__ven-Samlaren-K__nken-Tag.jpg?w=600&q=85&fm=jpg&fl=progressive)
Fjällräven
One day, Fjällräven hopes to have zero leftover materials from its production processes. Until then, it’s using scraps to create the Samlaren collection, Swedish for the Gatherer. There’s only been two collections of the pack bags and haulpacks, made from classic designs but with unconventional color combinations. Run, don’t walk, because once they sell out, they’re out.
Matek Clothing
Sported by celebrities including Rihanna and Pete Davidson, California-created Matek is a maker of chic and functional baselayers, bodysuits, and more stretchy layers. Everything, from the dik-diks to the balaclavas to the onesies, is made from deadstock and recycled materials. Whichever piece you choose, it’s suitable for cold mornings in Brooklyn or blue ski runs at Aspen. Recent collabs are with Halfdays, Gnarly, and Gia Seo.
Taylor Stitch x Ateliers & Repairs
When the California-based menswear brand ended up with extra units of core silhouettes, they called their fashion friend Maurizio Donadi of Ateliers & Repairs to help them turn old to gold. Featuring crisp shirts with antique maritime fabrics and camo pants with colorful patches, the deadstock collab was built to be worn, re-worn, and repaired for years to come.
Published 07-17-2024